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Oyster Perpetual – The pillar of Rolex’s success

Posted In Fashion & Technology - By Techtiplib on Thursday, April 4th, 2019 With No Comments »

Oyster Perpetual is at the heart of Rolex’s success and is still one of the most popular wrist watches worldwide. This sober and elegant steel piece was the first timepiece in history to incorporate an automatic rotor and a watertight case.

Oyster Perpetual

Neutral design that gives both him and her

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the perfect model to start in the universe of luxury watches of the crown. It is the great classic of the brand, the father of all Rolex watches. Robust and watertight up to 100 m, it is both elegant and sporty and suitable for any occasion, whether with polo or a suit and tie. The models with diameters of 26 and 31 mm are valuable and elegant pieces specifically designed for women. The 34, 36 or 39 mm versions fit both male and female wrists.

The Rolex gathers in Oyster Perpetual two historical inventions of watch making. The Geneva brand was the first to feature a watch with a watertight case and the first automatic rotor mechanism. Currently, most Rolex models are based on the iconic Oyster Perpetual, which still remains a very sober base model with three hands. Next to the designation of the model, a number corresponding to the size of the carton in millimeters usually appears.

Oyster Perpetual Date and Date just with date

If you prefer a watch with a date window and a Cyclops magnifying glass, we suggest the Oyster Perpetual Date or Datejust. The Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 115200 is based on a 34 mm steel case and costs about 4,700 euros, new, and about 4,000 euros, used. The 18-carat white and white gold version costs about 6,200 euros, new, and about 4,800 euros, used.

If you prefer a larger model, there is the Datejust 41 with 41 mm and the old version of Datejust II , also in that size. This is animated by the caliber 3136, which is no longer produced by Rolex. The Datejust 41 released in 2017 is animated by the Caliber 3235 with Chronergy exhaust and 70 hours of power reserve. The price of this model as new in the steel version is around 5,900 euros. Already a Datejust II used in steel costs about 5,500 euros.

Revolutionary automatic movement

In 1931, Rolex introduced a technological innovation, to which the Oyster Perpetual owes the second part of its name. This is the perpetual rotor system that revolutionized the fundamentals of watch making. This consists of an oscillating mass that takes advantage of the kinetic energy of the body to oscillate and transmit energy to the spring of the rope. That is, with the watch to be worn on the wrist, the rope is given through the movement of the arm. Patented in 1932, this mechanism was a huge success and it remains to this day the pillar of all automatic watches. The first Perpetual rotor, however, was still unidirectional and only in 1940 does the two-way rotor arise (it oscillates in both directions). Currently, this system is used by the overwhelming majority of watch making manufactures.

Rolex and the Channel Crossing

The mythical Oyster box, launched in the 1920s, owes its name precisely to the ability of this delicious mollusk to hermetically seal its shell to withstand underwater pressures. Rolex was a pioneer in the field of water tightness, having introduced the first version of the Oyster boxes in 1926. A year later, the Rolex Oyster accompanied Englishwoman Mercedes Gleitze in her attempt to be the first woman to cross the English Channel by swimming. The Oyster proved to be the first absolutely watertight watch, emerging from the cold water 8 hours later perfectly intact.

The designation “box Oyster” has since been a consolidated term for watch making, and is based on most models of the brand genebrina. The housing is constructed in a steel monobloc that constitutes the body of the part and has a sealed bottom. The bottom features a ribbed finish that allows Rolex watchmakers to access the mechanism with a special tool.

Different sizes, different sizes

The various carton sizes available in the Oyster Perpetual collection require the use of different sizes. The 39 mm version (Ref. 114300 ) is equipped with the 3132 caliber, also used in the Explorer . The two-way rotor allows the gauge to reach a 48-hour power reserve. One of the key features of the 3132 is its high accuracy. With a maximum deviation of two seconds per day, this model boasts the certification of chronometric accuracy assigned by the COSC. In addition, it offers the stop-seconds function that allows precise time setting.

The 3132 caliber is equipped with the Parachrom antimagnetic spiral, manufactured in a paramagnetic alloy of niobium and zirconium that guarantees a level of resistance to shocks far superior to that of a common spiral. Thanks to the Paraflex anti-shock system developed by Rolex itself, the mechanism is effectively protected against shocks in extreme situations.

Essential aesthetics

The date window with the typical Cyclops lens is not the only extra feature offered in the 34mm Oyster. This feminine model (Ref. 115234) is decorated with diamond indexes at odd hours, resting on a white gold box combined with 904L stainless steel. The final touch is given by the elegant corrugated bezel.

The models of the Oyster Perpetual collection stand out for a discreet and elegant design and come with multi-colored dials. The olive-green, red grape or champagne dials are especially exquisite, while classic-looking dials like graphite, white or navy blue are more sober. The thin hands are coated with a luminescent material, allowing the reading of hours even in the dark. Baton-type indexes are present on most dials, although some models have Arabic or Roman numerals. The 12 o’clock position is reserved for the brand symbol: the five-pointed crown.

As far as bracelets are concerned, Rolex also leaves nothing to chance: the three-link Oyster was introduced by Rolex in 1930, and is particularly sturdy and comfortable. It features a quick-connect Easylink, an ingenious system patented by Rolex that allows you to easily adjust its length by about 5mm, providing greater comfort.

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